How to Stop Drafts Around Doors and Windows: 11 Quick Winter Fixes

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You feel it the first cold night of the year: chilly air across the floor by the front door, or a curtain that moves even though the window is shut. Drafts make a warm house feel cold and quietly push up your heating bill all winter.

The good news: you don’t need new windows or doors. You need to find where the air gets in, pick the right material for each gap and spend an afternoon putting it in. Here’s how to do that for doors, windows and the hidden spots most people miss, plus renter-friendly options and key safety rules.

Why Stopping Drafts Is Worth an Afternoon

Drafts aren’t just a comfort problem. The U.S. Department of Energy calls air leaks “among the greatest sources of energy loss in a home” and says that by sealing uncontrolled air leaks you can save 10%–20% on your heating and cooling bills (DOE Energy Saver Guide). ENERGY STAR puts it this way: sealing air leaks and adding insulation can make your home more comfortable and save up to 10% on annual energy bills, and the simple fixes include weatherstripping doors and caulking around windows (ENERGY STAR).

Those numbers cover whole-house work, including the attic, so don’t expect them from one door. But doors and windows are where you feel drafts most, and ENERGY STAR calls them perfect do-it-yourself projects (ENERGY STAR).

How to Find Drafts Before You Fix Them

Spend 20 minutes finding the actual leaks first, and you’ll buy the right materials the first time.

1. Look and feel for the obvious signs

ENERGY STAR lists the classic signs of air leaks around doors and windows: drafts you can feel when they’re closed, visible gaps around the trim, dust or bugs getting in, outdoor odors coming inside and peeling paint around the frame (ENERGY STAR). Daylight is another giveaway. The DOE notes that visible daylight or a loose-fitting exterior door are common signs of air leakage (DOE). At dusk, look at the edges and bottom of each closed exterior door. If you see light, air is getting through.

2. Try the paper test

Close a window or door on a sheet of paper. If you can slide the paper back and forth easily, the seal could be tighter, and ENERGY STAR suggests thicker weatherstripping as the fix (ENERGY STAR). Repeat at several points along each side.

3. Use the incense test on a windy day

The DOE recommends carefully holding a lit incense stick or smoke pen next to windows, doors, electrical boxes, plumbing fixtures, outlets, ceiling fixtures and attic hatches on a windy day. If the smoke stream travels sideways, you’ve found a leak (DOE). Keep it away from curtains, and mark each leak with painter’s tape.

What You’ll Need

Bring your list of leaks and measurements of each door and window to the hardware store.

• Weatherstripping for moving parts, such as V-strip (tension seal), foam tape, rubber tubular or bulb seals and felt.
• A door sweep or door bottom with a flexible gasket for the gap under exterior doors.
• Caulk and a caulk gun for cracks around stationary frames and trim. The DOE lists acrylic latex caulk among common air-sealing materials (DOE).
• A window insulation kit (shrink-to-fit plastic film with double-sided tape) for drafty glass.
• Basic tools: tape measure, utility knife, scissors, screwdriver or drill, putty knife, hair dryer, rags and rubbing alcohol for cleaning surfaces.

How to Stop Drafts Around Doors

Exterior doors leak at the sides and top where the door meets the frame, at the bottom over the threshold, and anywhere the door doesn’t close squarely.

4. Fix the fit before you add weatherstripping

Weatherstripping can’t seal a door that sags or doesn’t latch tightly. The DOE’s weatherization job aid says to make adjustments for loose hinges, knobs and strike plates before weatherstripping (DOE). Tighten every hinge screw; if one just spins, use a longer screw that bites into the framing. If the door also squeaks or rubs, our guide on how to fix a squeaky door covers hinge pins, lubrication and sanding a sticking edge. A strike plate that’s set with longer screws helps the door pull snugly against the stop, and it’s also one of the upgrades in our guide to how to secure a front door, so you get a security bonus along with a tighter seal.

5. Weatherstrip the top and sides of the door

For the door jamb, the DOE’s job aid walks through measuring each side of the doorway, notching the ends of the side pieces so they fit tightly against the top piece, and fastening the strips securely before checking that the door still opens and closes smoothly (DOE). For most doors you’ll choose between:

• Self-adhesive foam or rubber tape: the easiest option. Clean the stop with rubbing alcohol, then press the tape on where the door will compress it.
• V-strip (tension seal): a folded strip of vinyl or metal that springs open to fill the gap. It’s durable and nearly invisible, but it needs a flat, smooth surface and snug corners.
• Tubular (bulb) seals: rubber or vinyl kits that screw to the stop and hold up well on busy doors.

The goal, as the DOE puts it for its own installers, is a seal that stops air when the door is closed without making it hard to open (DOE).

6. Seal the gap under the door

The gap at the bottom is the one you feel on your ankles. You have three options:

• Screw-on door sweep: a strip of metal or vinyl with a flexible rubber or brush fin that mounts to the inside face of the door. Set it so the fin lightly touches the threshold when the door is closed.
• Slide-on door bottom: a U-shaped rubber or vinyl channel that wraps the door’s bottom edge; usually the door has to come off its hinges.
• Adjustable threshold: many thresholds have height-adjustment screws. Raise yours a quarter turn at a time until it meets the door bottom, before you replace anything.

A sweep that scrapes the floor wears out fast, so adjust it until the door closes easily and the paper test shows a firm seal.

7. Use a draft stopper as a stopgap

A fabric draft snake along the bottom of a rarely used door is a fine temporary fix. Just never let one block an exit you’d need in a fire.

How to Stop Window Drafts

Windows leak around the sash (the part that moves), around the frame and trim (the parts that don’t) and, on older single-pane windows, lose heat through the glass. Each needs a different fix.

8. Caulk the cracks that don’t move

The basic rule: caulk seals cracks between parts that don’t move, like window frames and trim, while weatherstripping seals parts that do, like a sash or door edge. ENERGY STAR lists caulking around windows among the simple fixes (ENERGY STAR). Scrape out old, cracked caulk with a putty knife, clean the joint, then run a steady bead and smooth it. ENERGY STAR says caulk is for gaps of about a quarter inch or less, and larger gaps call for backer rod or a non-expanding foam sealant made for windows and doors (ENERGY STAR).

9. Weatherstrip the sash

For a double-hung or sliding window, a vinyl or metal V-strip fits inside the side channels where the sash slides. Self-adhesive foam tape works well on the top of the upper sash and the bottom of the lower sash, where the window presses closed. If the lock no longer reaches after you add a strip, it’s too thick.

10. Add plastic window film for the winter

A shrink-to-fit plastic window kit is one of the cheapest draft fixes you can buy. ENERGY STAR calls it an easy, effective and inexpensive window option that reduces drafts, helps the house feel warmer in winter and reduces condensation, and if the film extends over the woodwork, it can also stop leaks around the window (ENERGY STAR). Its directions are simple: size the film so it overlaps a few inches on each side, clean the frame first, apply the tape and film, then shrink it tight with a hair dryer. In spring, the tape peels off the trim without damaging the finish.

If you have mini-blinds, ENERGY STAR has a handy trick: remove the tilt wand first, apply the film, reinforce a small square around the wand hook with four overlapping strips of clear tape, cut out the center with a sharp blade and reinstall the wand (ENERGY STAR).

11. Upgrade to low-e film or storm windows

For a longer-term fix that’s still cheaper than new windows, the DOE suggests applying low-e film to the inside of windows to keep heat from radiating out, or installing low-e interior or exterior storm windows, which it says can save 10%–30% on heating and cooling costs depending on the windows you already have (DOE).

Curtains, Shades and Other Easy Layers

Once the leaks are sealed, window coverings add one more layer between you and the cold glass. The DOE’s cold-weather window tips include:

• Close curtains and shades at night to protect against cold drafts, and open them during the day to let in warming sunlight (DOE).
• Install tight-fitting, insulating window shades on windows that still feel drafty after you’ve weatherized them.
• Consider insulated cellular shades, the “honeycomb” style that can be raised or lowered.

Curtains that reach the sill or floor work best. Keep them away from space heaters.

Don’t Miss These Hidden Draft Spots

If the doors and windows are sealed and the room still feels drafty, the air may be coming from somewhere less obvious. The DOE’s air-sealing checklist points to several common spots (DOE):

• Outlets and switch plates on exterior walls: install foam gaskets behind the cover plates. Turn off the power at the breaker before removing covers.
• Plumbing, ducting and wiring holes: caulk and seal gaps where pipes and wires pass through walls, floors and ceilings, such as under the kitchen and bathroom sinks.
• Larger gaps around trim and baseboards: use foam sealant.
• The fireplace: make sure the damper closes properly.
• Attic pull-down stairs: install an insulated box to seal leaky attic stairs.

Small drywall holes around pipes or old anchors leak air too; see how to patch small holes in drywall.

Draft-Proofing Safety Rules

• Older homes and lead paint: EPA says roughly three-quarters of U.S. homes built before 1978 still contain some lead-based paint, and worn paint on surfaces with constant friction, like doors and window sills, can produce hazardous chips and dust (EPA). If your home was built before 1978, don’t scrape, sand or pry painted trim until you’ve read EPA’s lead-safe guidance, and ENERGY STAR suggests a professional may be needed to handle lead paint chips safely (ENERGY STAR).
• Leave combustion vents to the pros: leaks around chimneys, furnace flues and gas water heater vents need fire-resistant materials like sheet metal and furnace cement caulk, not regular caulk or foam (DOE), and the DOE recommends a professional for that work (DOE).
• Keep the dryer vent clear: the DOE recommends checking that your dryer vent isn’t blocked, both to save energy and to help prevent a fire (DOE). Never tape or seal over it.
• Keep every exit usable: weatherstripping, film and draft stoppers should never make a door or window hard to open in an emergency, especially bedroom windows.

Renter-Friendly Ways to Stop Drafts

Foam tape, stick-on door sweeps, draft snakes, plastic window film and thermal curtains all come off cleanly in spring. Ask your landlord before you caulk or drill, and report a door that won’t latch, since that’s a security issue too. For more low-commitment upgrades, see our renter-friendly home security ideas. If a patio slider is your draftiest spot, check that it closes fully and locks tight; our guide on how to secure a sliding glass door covers the track, the latch and secondary locks.

When to Call a Professional

If you’ve sealed the obvious leaks and the house still feels drafty, a home energy professional can find the rest. The DOE notes that energy assessors use tools like a blower door test and infrared camera imaging to locate the sources of air leaks (DOE). Call a pro, too, for lead paint, trim removal or leaks around gas appliance vents.

Help may be available. ENERGY STAR notes that some utilities offer rebates for professional energy assessments and air sealing (ENERGY STAR), and income-eligible households can apply to the DOE’s Weatherization Assistance Program, which the DOE says saves households about $372 a year on average (DOE).

Frequently Asked Questions

Frequently asked questions

What is the fastest way to stop a draft under a door?

Lay a draft snake along the bottom of the door tonight, then install a door sweep or adjust the threshold this weekend. A sweep with a flexible rubber or brush fin that lightly touches the threshold seals most gaps without making the door hard to open.

Should I use caulk or weatherstripping?

Use caulk for cracks between parts that don’t move, such as around window and door frames and trim. Use weatherstripping for parts that move, such as the edges of a door or a window sash.

Does plastic window film really help?

Yes. ENERGY STAR describes shrink-to-fit window film as an easy, inexpensive way to reduce drafts, make the room feel warmer in winter and cut condensation. It works best when the film extends over the window trim.

How do I find where a draft is coming from?

Try the paper test by closing a door or window on a sheet of paper; if it slides easily, the seal is loose. On a windy day, carefully hold a lit incense stick near seams, outlets and fixtures and watch for smoke that moves sideways.

Can renters stop drafts without damaging anything?

Yes. Foam tape, stick-on door sweeps, draft snakes, window film and thermal curtains all remove cleanly. Ask your landlord before caulking or drilling.

The Bottom Line

To stop drafts, find the leaks first, then use the right fix for each one: tighten the door’s fit, weatherstrip the moving edges, add a door sweep, caulk the cracks that don’t move and cover drafty glass with plastic film or snug shades. Check the hidden spots, follow the lead-paint and vent safety rules, and you’ll have a warmer, quieter home before the coldest weeks of winter arrive.